Japanese Beetle

Japanese beetle is the popular name of the beetle species Popillia Japonica. Originally from Japan this beetle is not as destructive in its native country as it is in the United States of America. The Japanese beetle in the USA is a serious pest to nearly 300 species of plants and crops ranging from asparagus to dahlias, from hibiscus to pepper plants, from tomatoes to zinnias. Also according to scientists from the Agricultural Research Service, the pest costs the ornamental plant industry $450 million in damage each year. The Japanese beetle goes through four stages in its lifespan: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Eggs are hatched in autumn, feed before winter and by winter they bury themselves deep in the soil below the frost line. Come spring, they emerge to the top layer of soil and pupate into adults. The adult Japanese beetle feeds on most plants in an average American garden with luscious leaves and their feeding leads to defoliation.

Controlling the growth of the Japanese beetle may seem difficult for, a complete control of the pest requires a year long program and at different times of the year the program needs to be varied taking into account its lifecycle. However there are simple steps that can be taken to control this pest, the Japanese beetle. Firstly plant non-attractive foliage like baby's breath, false cypresses, magnolias and poppies. The adult Japanese beetle does not feed on such plants. Secondly make sure all plants in one's garden are healthy for the Japanese beetle is attracted to diseased vegetation. Thirdly, if one has plants in the garden that bears fruit; make sure to get rid of diseased or prematurely ripe fruit. The Japanese beetle is attracted to such fruit. Also chives and garlic among others act as natural repellants to the pest. Planting geraniums in the gardens help for within thirty minutes of consumption of geranium petals the Japanese beetle is paralyzed for 24 hours. During this period of paralysis the beetles are usually consumed by other insects.

While the above are mere precautionary methods that can be taken to prevent the growth of the Japanese beetle, they are not foolproof. Foolproof methods of controlling the growth of the pest are biological ones. Bacillus thuringiensis is a naturally occurring bacterium that can be applied to the soil like any insecticide to prevent the growth of the Japanese beetle. Milky spore is a bacterium that can be used to kill the Japanese beetle in the egg stage. The spore is spread on the ground and the eggs ingest this, later the spore germinates inside the egg and multiplies, killing the egg over time. This method is effective for the eggs are hatched on to the ground and the spore kills the Japanese beetle before it is even born. Parasites, such as tiphia vernalis and istocheta aldrichi, are effective in keeping the population of the Japanese beetle to a minimum.

Garden Slugs

Any committed gardener might suffer a mild heart-attack at the mention of the dreaded words 'garden slugs.' Slugs feast on many plants that you have grown with much effort and care and it is natural that you don't think of them with affection. Though slugs are eaten in some parts of the world, garden slugs are largely considered to be disgusting and harmful creatures. This view is not totally correct. One must always attempt to keep in mind the value of slugs and their contribution to the environment.

Some people might not be aware that garden slugs are natural 'recycle bins.' They eat rotten leaves and produce rich, fertile soil. In this sense, slugs actually help plants to grow. This is why it is unfair to see slugs as 'little monsters' that eat away and destroy all plants. Garden slugs are also important as they provide food for hedgehogs, raccoons, snakes, turtles and frogs. You must remember that your attempts at reducing the slug population would invariably lead to a reduction in numbers of animals who prey on them. Various new methods aimed at reducing garden slugs are considered to be a major reason for the fairly drastic decline in the hedgehog population in England.

You could take certain steps to reduce the amount of garden slugs without actually killing them. You can remove the any food that slugs might find in your garden. You must get rid of fallen leaves that lie about your garden for this purpose. Slugs also need a cool place to stay during the day. Remove stones or pieces of wood that could provide protection for slugs. Such practices could be used to reduce garden slugs without using inhuman methods to kill them. You can also attempt to attract animals to your garden that prey on slugs.

There are other methods that you could use to achieve the same purpose though such methods are likely to have a greater adverse impact on the environment. Some would recommend stirring your garden soil which would expose the eggs laid by slugs to the elements. This would destroy these eggs. Slug pellets could also reduce the number of garden slugs though you might not be aware that such deaths are likely to be painful for these animals. The salt in these pellets could cause excruciating pain as slugs have bodies that contain a high percentage of water.

Garden slugs could be more harmful than helpful. This however, does not mean that all slugs should be killed. Allowing slugs to live peacefully might not be in the interest of your garden either. That is why a balance must be struck in the case of garden slugs. Do not try to kill all of them but make sure that you keep the number of garden slugs under control. Try not to use methods that harm the environment when you are getting rid of them.

Garden Slug

Slugs are scientifically known as Arion Hortensis Agg., are gastropods without or with a very small shell which is conceived in the mantle. These slimy species move on a trail of slime which it secretes by the pedal gland which is located just below its mouth. A garden slug spreads through the mass reproduction of eggs. A slug lays an average of 20-30 eggs per time while this number may vary according to the age of the slug. An adult may lay comparatively fewer eggs than a young slug. Reproduction takes place during any month of the year in outdoor soil surfaces. Many of these slugs are common particularly in the United States for being garden pests, out of which the garden slug is one of the most destructive.

The garden slug was introduced to the United States from Europe in the 1800s. They have been commonly known for being pests of garden vegetable, field crops and ornamentals attacking both leaves and root crops. The garden slug is found in large numbers in damp weather seasons of the year whereas the dry seasons are spent in concealed shelter spots. A garden slug is about 2-3 centimeters long when fully grown and its head contains two sets of tentacles. The upper tentacle is where the eyes are located while the lower tentacle is used for tasting and smelling. The mouth is located below the lower tentacle and contains a radula-a tooth which is use to grate plant tissues.

However despite its destructive nature in cultivated areas, the garden slug becomes beneficial when recycling organic material used to build soils. But since its drawbacks surpass the benefits, various methods are used to control these pests.

One precautionary slug control method is to search for egg masses of the garden slug and destroy them. Another preventive measure is to remove debris, logs and stones while maintaining trimmed grass and weed since the garden slug populates and shelters around these areas. Watering crops only when necessary will reduce the dampness in the farm which will further discourage the spreading of the garden slug.

Commercial slug pellets such as Metaldehyde and Methicarbs are widely available, but is discouraged to use in organic gardening due its chemical base. Moreover from a garden wildlife perspective, species will be harmed by eating poisoned slugs. Therefore organic methods include copper pipes and commercial slug rings which stimulate the slugs' aversion to copper, are highly recommended. In addition, beer or milk traps which are used to drown slugs; and comfrey, which can be used to round plants that need protection, are commonly used methods. Natural slug predators include frogs, topes, selective birds and beetles. Encouraging these creatures would assist in curbing the slug population.

It has been identified that the best times to control slugs is during the seasons of spring and fall. It has also been proven that the best garden slug control method applicable is the use of low toxic, iron phosphate-based slug baits.

Garden Pest Moles

After the initial plotting and planting of a garden, the growth phase begins. For every dedicated gardener, there are a myriad of complications that arise, all of which they try their fullest to overcome in order to protect their turf - the most common being garden pests.

Out of the many varieties of garden pests moles are one of the trickiest to deal with. Moles, also known as mould warp in the past are sturdy little mammals that live below the soil. Even though they are considered a garden pest moles are a protected species in some countries. People argue that by labeling them as garden pest moles are subjected to a lot of ruthless savagery in the form of traps and chemical poisoning. They believe that the threat moles pose to plant life is not through direct association; unlike other garden pest moles tend to cause disruption due to their industrious lifestyle.

They are partially blind, but have a highly developed sense of smell and powerful front paws which they use for burrowing. Moles create a complex network of tunnels which include their living quarters as well as a larder to store their food for later consumption. Their diet consists mainly of earthworms and insects as well as the odd mouse or other moles, and eats half their weight on a daily basis. Completely unaware of their title as garden pest moles -some believe- are on their way to becoming extinct.

As a fully realized garden pest moles do a lot of damage. Mole hills breakup smooth turf and uproot planted bulbs, while the network of tunnels underneath make it difficult for plants to take root and grow properly. They also create a lot of complications on farms by contaminating soil and endangering the livestock, damaging agricultural machinery and drainage systems.

In order to deal with this form of garden pest moles are usually chemically gassed in their underground chambers or set traps by irate farmers and gardeners. Their tunnels are also smoked and flooded and sometimes cat litter and blood meal is used to drive them away. Some gardeners try to use humane methods eradication by capturing the moles and transporting them elsewhere. According to some, since most of the damage moles cause to a garden is visual, they recommend tidying up the surface and allowing the mole to continue its existence underground.

Though generally labeled as a garden pest moles are a varied species that are anything but. These animals share a striking similarity to other burrowers and hence the differentiating title of 'true' moles which under classification belong to the Talpidae family. Several other burrowers that could be mistaken for a mole but are more exotic are the golden moles of South Africa, the strand moles and the marsupial moles of Australia.

A niche crowd of activists feel that these animals are mostly misunderstood and strive to protect them. However, it'll be quite some time before the extinction of moles becomes a mainstream issue.

Control Slugs

   
Control Slugs

To control slugs terrorizing your garden is quite simple. You can take your pick from a number of methods taking into consideration the amount of time and money you are willing to invest and your level of squeamishness. The simplest method (in terms of equipment used) is to gout into the garden with a pail and a pair of tongs and collect them. Since slugs are nocturnal creatures and prefer moisture, you will be able to collect more at night, after a slight drizzle. If not, then you will find them in little garden pockets where it is still shady and moist like under logs and flower pots as well as in damp leaf litter. Once the situation is under control slugs can either be fed to ducks or doused in beer. You can also use soap water in the bucket; plain water has no effect on them and the eventually crawl out. They can also be used as fish food.

Slug infestations in the garden are like balloons under water - they keep popping back up no matter how hard you try to keep them down. This is because slugs are hermaphroditic and their eggs can lie undetected for years in moist soil before hatching. Since we are unable to be rid of them completely, to control slugs by reducing their numbers is the only possible option.

You could also use iron phosphate pellets available in super markets. Sprinkle these pellets throughout your garden and you will need to wait for at least six days for it to take effect. To control slugs this way is quite effective since you don't need to go looking for them, but you should make sure to keep them away from pets and children.

Most gardeners control slugs with commercially available pesticides, but If you're worried about its effects on your edible plants and the environment, then you can practice organic way to control slugs. One is by adjusting the times you tend to water the garden. Since slugs only tend to come out mostly at night, by watering your garden in the evening you create the perfect environment for these pests to crawl about in. Water your garden in the morning and any moisture would have evaporated by the time night falls.

Use the beer trap to control slugs enmasse by filling a shallow jug with beer, burying it neck deep in the soil and covering the opening with a lid slightly wedged open with a stick so that the slugs can enter. The beer in the jug acts like a magnet and pulls the garden slugs towards and into its toxic depths where they drown. The lid is kept on in order to stop the rain from falling in and diluting the beer.

To most gardeners the control of slugs is an ongoing battle that can be won with effective slug control measures that need to be viewed more as a constant cyclical application than spot treatment for long term slug free gardening.

Aphids Control

Aphids are known by a host of names that include plant lice, greenflies, black flies and or whiteflies. Whatever name you may call them, they are universally known to be a very common pest capable of causing significant damage to plants. They are in essence sap suckers and belong to the Aphidoidea super-family. Widely believed to be a successful group of organisms, these minute creatures are the cause for many a farmers despair and frustration, regardless of geographic location although they are most common in temperate climates.

Thankfully though they have a series of natural enemies. These include lady beetles, hoverfly larvae, and types of wasps, spiders and fungi. Knowing these natural enemies does help in aphids control. However actual aphids control can be more complex and you'll need to rely on more than these pest's natural enemies.

One key element of aphids control is early detection. Therefore it is advisable to be constantly be on the lookout for warning signs of an aphid attack. For starts start looking for these pests on the underside of leaves as well as on and around tender leaves. You will probably notice a slight yellowing of tender leaves if they are under attack. The underside of leaves could also bring your attention to possible infestations. When you notice the pests on your plants the best way to deal with them is to spray a strong current of water on them and blast them off the surface of the leaves or affected areas. If water on its own doesn't seem to be doing the trick trying a mix of soap and oil mixed with insecticidal soap and horticultural oil.

If the infestation is more serious you may want to resort to buying bags of lady beetles who love to gorge on these minuscule but destructive pests. However make sure you release them on to your vegetation towards the evening when hungry birds are not likely to feed on the beetles.

Another action to engage in aphids control is the planting of other types of plants that lure aphids. Plants such as asters, mums, hollyhocks and begonias are much loved by these pests. By having these plants in close proximity to the plants you want protected you can have the aphids now attacking the luring plants instead the plants you want safe. However there is no one trusted and proven method for aphids control. This is why a combination of all or some of the methods mentioned herein is your best bet at aphids control. If you are looking are a more large scale plantation that is under an attack from these pests you may need to look at more effective methods such as chemical based pesticides. While these are not particularly environmentally friendly the extent of your plantation may dictate the type of action you need to take when considering aphids control.

Aphid Control

   
Aphid Control

Gardening is a real challenge because of the amount of work involved. Majority of the work, though, involves protecting the plants than growing them. Just like having kids, plants need to be taken care of and treated for diseases and fed and so on. They do not simply grow. Similar to kids they, too, need their regular checkups and medication so they do not get sick. Like children's viruses, plants are regularly attacked by pests, who feed on the plants, destroying them day by day.

One such pest is the aphid. Aphids are small insects that feed of plant sap, causing them to dehydrate and then eventually die. However, dehydration is not the only way it kills plants. When aphids suck the sap out of plants, they secrete a substance called honeydew. This causes fungus to grow on the plant which acts as a parasite, sharing the plants resources, killing it faster.

As a result, for most gardeners and planters, aphids can be a real problem. There are several pesticides to get maintain aphid control and get rid of the pests. However, excessive use of these chemicals are not healthy to the plants. Additionally, in the case of vegetable plants, the vegetables become almost unusable when pesticides are used. Fortunately there are other remedies that can be used for aphid control.

Using Neem oil is a good solution as it gets rid of aphids yet does not affect the growth of the plants in any way. Simply washing vegetables and fruits will wash away the oil, making them good for consumption. While maximising aphid control, the oil does not fend off insects such as bees which are useful to the growth of plants. Another method of aphid control is to trick aphids using a yellow colored glass filled with water. The yellow color will attract the aphids into the glass, drowning them instantly. Soap on the surface of the water will help reduce the surface tension of the water, so that the light insects do not float on the surface.

Using a high pressured hose can also be used for aphid control. The pressure of the water will throw the aphids of the plants. Once thrown off, the aphids are most likely not to return to the plant. This method of aphid control is safe as it does not involve any chemicals. However, it is not as efficient as other treatments. It merely delays the aphids destroying the plants.

A home remedy for aphid control is to use liquid soap such as hand-wash soap and spray the plants with the solution. This dissolves the protective coating of the aphids causing them to dry up and die. Here again, in the case of fruit or vegetable plants, they will have to be washed thoroughly before use.